The Isa Bey Mosque in Selcuk

What is the Isa Bey Mosque?

It is a mosque from the 1370s, one of the oldest and finest buildings left from the Anatolian beyliks, the small Turkish states that ruled this coast between Seljuk times and the Ottoman conquest. It was built in 1374-75 in honor of Isa Bey, ruler of the Aydinid dynasty, whose lands included the town that grew up on Ayasuluk Hill.

The architect was Ali ibn Mushaimish al-Dimashqi, a man from Damascus, and the plan follows the Great Mosque of Damascus: a walled courtyard in front of a long prayer hall. That makes it unusual for western Turkey, where most later mosques follow the Ottoman pattern of one great central dome. It is still a working mosque today, used by the people of Selcuk.

Where is it, and how far is it from the Kusadasi cruise port?

It stands at the foot of Ayasuluk Hill in Selcuk, about 20 to 25 minutes by road from the cruise terminal. The Basilica of St. John sits just above it on the slope, and Ayasuluk Fortress, which is open to visitors, crowns the top of the hill. The field of the Temple of Artemis is a few minutes away on the flat ground below.

So the mosque is not a separate trip. It sits in the middle of the cluster of sights that make up Selcuk, and the Ephesus ruins are only a short drive further on.

What should you look for at the Isa Bey Mosque?

Start with the west wall, because it is the showpiece. It is faced in marble, carved with inscriptions and geometric patterns, and its main doorway has a deep carved hood of stalactite-like niches. Stand back far enough to take in the whole wall, then walk close to the portal to see the detail.

Then go into the courtyard. It once had porticoes all around, and twelve round columns still stand there among olive trees and young cypresses. The high stone walls with their arched windows make it feel enclosed and calm, even on a busy morning in town.

Inside the prayer hall, look up: the two domes, about 9.4 m and 8.1 m across, had their rims decorated with Iznik tiles. Outside, the brick minaret rises from an octagonal base, though its top above the balcony has fallen. A second minaret on the west side is gone completely.

Why is part of the mosque in ruins?

Because it was left in poor condition for a long time. By 1829 it lay in ruins, the minaret's upper part had fallen by 1842, and during the nineteenth century the building was even used as a caravanserai, a lodging for traders and their animals. Today the prayer hall is back in use, while the courtyard walls and the minaret still show the damage.

That mix of a living mosque and an open-air ruin is part of its charm. Next to it stands a small octagonal tomb of stone and brick with a pyramid roof, which many visitors walk past without noticing.

Can cruise visitors go inside, and what should you wear?

Yes. Entry is free and visitors are welcome outside prayer times; the mosque closes to visitors while prayers are held, and the Friday midday prayer is the longest of the week. Please cover your shoulders and knees, take your shoes off at the door of the prayer hall, and women should bring a light scarf to cover their hair. Speak softly and do not walk in front of anyone who is praying.

A scarf and a pair of easy shoes in your day bag solve all of this. Photos of the courtyard and the outside walls are fine; inside the prayer hall, keep it discreet and skip the flash.

How long does a visit take, and which tour includes it?

Not long: a short stop is enough for the west portal, the courtyard and a look inside. It is one of the stops on our Open-Air Circle (Panoramic) tour, together with the Temple of Artemis, the Byzantine aqueduct, the outside of the Grotto of the Seven Sleepers and the Ayasuluk Hill viewpoint, all in 3 to 4 hours with almost no walking and no entrance tickets to buy.

On a longer day it fits easily after the Basilica of St. John, which is a short walk up the hill. If you want it added to an Ephesus day, our custom shore excursion is built around your list and your ship's hours. We meet you right outside the cruise terminal exit; our meeting point page shows the spot. Send us your ship and date through our inquiry form and we will tell you how the day fits.